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Antalya (Turkey)
The Mediterranean’s most radiant legacy
Dotted with the remains of ancient civilisations, Antalya is surrounded by sparkling turquoise bays and Blue Flag beaches that attract millions of visitors.
Since time immemorial, the Turkish coasts, both on the Aegean and the Mediterranean, have been visited by various peoples who emerged from the Mare Nostrum. The south of the Anatolian peninsula, and specifically the vast Gulf of Antalya, was chosen by various civilisations who settled in these lands, blessed with an exceptional climate and a wealth of fertile soil, rivers and groundwater.
It is currently one of the most well-rounded destinations in the Mediterranean, thanks to its crystal-clear waters, its rich marine biodiversity and the opportunity to explore everything from historic shipwrecks and archaeological remains to underwater caves and artificial reefs.
The Greeks, Lycians, Persians, Romans, Seljuks, Byzantines and Ottomans all passed through these parts, each leaving their mark, their culture and, above all, the ruins of their ancient cities and monuments, which are still a real sight to behold today.
We are approaching the city that gives its name to the whole gulf: Antalya. Also known as the heart of the Turkish Riviera, for many Turks and Europeans it is the city that symbolises excellence in tourism on the Turkish Mediterranean coast. In recent years, this beautiful corner of Turkey has become a magnet, attracting millions of people who want to enjoy some of the finest beaches lapped by turquoise waters, excellent cuisine, an exceptional climate that guarantees over three hundred days of sunshine a year, and Greek and Roman ruins. A destination where tourism is neither intrusive nor destructive, and where the focus is on the sustainability of resources.
Before visiting Antalya, it is important to distinguish between the new town and the old town. The new city, with its wide, palm-lined avenues, modern shopping centres and elegant hotels right by the sea, reflects the city’s vitality. On the other hand, the old town known as Kaleiçi invites you to explore it at a leisurely pace and discover its charms. Perched on a rocky promontory overlooking a cove, old Antalya reveals its labyrinthine alleyways, some of which are steep, such as those leading down to the harbour.
The gateway to two thousand years of history
We entered Kaleiçi through the monumental Hadrian’s Gate, one of Antalya’s historic landmarks and the most iconic entrance to the walled city. Built in the year 130 AD to commemorate the Roman emperor’s visit, this elegant structure with three arches remains, almost twenty centuries later, the natural gateway for those wishing to explore the historic heart of the city.
As we step through the gate, we come across old Ottoman houses with white and colourful façades, which whisper tales of past civilisations. Some of them, such as the old Konaks, are mansions that have been converted into boutique hotels, opening their doors to allow us to step into courtyards that exude the scent of orange blossom and jasmine. Not to mention the Şehzade Korkut Mosque, which is as impressive for its architecture as it is for its rich history. The ruins inside and in the courtyard bear traces of various civilisations, but what has made it famous for over a hundred years is its truncated minaret, Kesik Minare, the top of which was destroyed by fire and has recently been restored.
Wandering through the streets, we came to the Roman tower of Hidirlik Kulesi, a remnant of the ancient walls on the cliff from which the harbour can be seen. Although the best view of it is right next door, in Karaalioglu Parki, which has some stunning viewpoints overlooking the mountains, the bay, the harbour and a small beach. It won’t be hard to spot the odd vendor selling simit (a round bread with sesame seeds) – one of the country’s traditional specialities – in the park; they usually carry it in a basket balanced on their heads.
Cuisine, one of the main highlights of the trip
At lunchtime, we headed to the Casa Sur Boutique Hotel and Restaurant, an old 19th-century Ottoman house offering some of the finest cuisine in the city, as well as rooms featuring a variety of themed designs.
There are places that encapsulate the soul of a city. In Antalya, this place is the old harbour, a cove protected by walls which for centuries was a port of call for merchants, sailors and travellers from all corners of the Mediterranean.
You simply must visit this fishing port and admire the sailing boats as they cruise along the coast. At dusk, the harbour is teeming with tourists looking for one of the countless restaurants to have dinner at. At any of these places, you simply must try a grida (the most prized fish on this coast); Patlican reçeli; aubergine jam, tandir kebap, lamb cooked inside a potato; Kofte, Turkish meatballs; Pide, a Turkish flatbread; and the popular Meze, a selection of hot and cold appetisers where savoury, sweet and spicy flavours come together, such as those made with aubergine, tomato, cucumber, chicken, mussels, etc. They are almost always accompanied by raki, a very famous aniseed-flavoured spirit in Turkey, as well as ayran, a yoghurt-based drink made from sheep’s milk mixed with water, salt and mint. Not to mention the national drink, which is çay, or tea, served in Meyhane taverns, where alcoholic drinks such as raki or wine are served.
Wandering through the narrow streets, we came to the Clock Tower, of Roman origin, situated on the boundary between the historic and modern parts of the city. This is where several shopping streets and a bazaar meet, and where you’ll find the 13th-century Yivli Minare, the city’s most famous red-brick minaret, which is another of its landmarks.
We cannot say goodbye to this charming town without visiting the Archaeological Museum, a real treat for lovers of history and ancient art, and the Düden waterfalls, where the river flows into the sea near Lara Beach. At dusk, when they light up, the best place to admire them is Düden Selalesi Park.
After exploring the old town, we visited a hotel in the new town, the 5-star Hotel Akra, where we had a fantastic stay. This splendid accommodation offers guests the chance to swim in its pools or on a beach reserved exclusively for the hotel. Situated on the hotel’s terrace, the Asmani restaurant offers an exceptional dining experience with unique flavours and panoramic views of the Mediterranean which, combined with the sunset and the inspiring music that accompanies it, make every dinner an unforgettable moment.
The Turkish Riviera: from endless beaches to ancient cities
Its crystal-clear waters, rich marine biodiversity, historic shipwrecks and archaeological remains, as well as underwater caves and artificial reefs, make Antalya one of the most well-rounded destinations in the Mediterranean.
We head west, where Blue Flag beaches stretch out one after the other, until we reach Kemer. At Moonlight Bay, Qualista Beach, with its cutting-edge beach clubs, is every bit as good as any beach in the Caribbean. Lying on a Balinese bed, with a mojito in hand and listening to the music, we realise that we are at a beach destination we will never forget.
However, what really emphasises its importance even more is that it is surrounded by historic sites that are well worth a visit. The first of these is Faselis (Phaselis), an ancient trading port under Greek rule, where even Alexander the Great lived for several months. Later, the Romans settled here and left behind structures such as an aqueduct, whose stone arches rose amongst the pine trees. But the best is yet to come when you reach the main avenue, almost three hundred metres long and lined with large columns, which leads you to the agora and another magnificent beach, where numerous boats are moored in the calm waters of the Mediterranean, one of which stands out for its pirate-style appearance.
But perhaps the most interesting feature of the whole complex is its theatre. From up here, we enjoyed a magnificent view of the mountains and the sea, whilst the song “Bésame mucho”, performed by two American girls – one on the violin and the other on the flute – played in the background. This is yet another of the unforgettable memories we’ve brought back from this trip.
To round off our tour of this area to the west of Antalya, we head to one of Turkey’s most iconic mountains, Mount Olympus of Lycia, which, at 2,365 metres, is the highest peak on the Turkish Riviera and is better known as Tahtali Dagi. Although the name brings to mind the legendary Greek Mount Olympus, these two mountains are part of different stories. The Olympos cable car, which takes you almost to the summit, offers fantastic views of the entire Mediterranean coastline and the sea when the clouds clear for a moment.
It is said that Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, described Antalya as “the most beautiful place in the world”. The best way to find out is to visit this city and its surroundings to understand why this region inspires such universal admiration.
For more information: https://goturkiye.com/es/antalya
Author and photography: Carlos Rodríguez Zapata
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