Photography: Fabian Cano
Casanare Department (Colombia)
A journey through cocoa, savannah and warm hospitality
Some journeys are remembered for a monument, a photograph or a particularly memorable meal. Others stay with us for something harder to explain: the feeling of having stepped, if only for a few days, into the rhythm of a place and the way of life of its people. The occasion for this visit to Yopal, the capital of Casanare Department, was the 8th International Cocoa Seminar, organised by the Colombian National Federation of Cocoa Growers on 3 and 4 September 2026.
The seminar also featured Dr Antonio Santos del Valle, President of the Tourism and Society Think Tank, who delivered a presentation entitled “From cocoa to the tourism experience: opportunities for Colombia in the international tourism market”. In his address, he highlighted the need to develop Colombian cocoa into a distinctive tourism experience, capable of competing internationally through themed routes, farm visits, tastings, gastronomy, local culture and direct encounters with cocoa-growing communities.
The proposal emphasised that tourism does not replace the core activity of cocoa production, but can become a strategic complement: creating new income opportunities, raising appreciation for the work of rural communities and bringing visitors closer to the origins, quality and identity of one of Colombia’s most emblematic products..
Cocoa was therefore the starting point, but Colombia’s Llanos ultimately revealed something far richer: abundant nature, the culture of the plains, honest flavours, music, conversation and a warmth of welcome that makes visitors part of the story.
The seminar placed cocoa at the heart of essential discussions about tourism, biodiversity and sustainable transformation. Yet stepping outside the sessions and taking in the surroundings made it clear that Casanare Department and its capital, Yopal, have everything needed to offer travellers far more than attendance at an event: the chance to discover a destination full of life.
Yopal is a city of arrivals, encounters and movement. From the outset, its role as a gateway to the Llanos is unmistakable. People come here for work, business, nature, cattle ranching, culture or rest, while others arrive to begin a journey towards places where the savannah seems endless. Yet Yopal is also a city that looks directly towards the mountains, a feature shared by 12 of Casanare’s 19 municipalities—a fact that challenges the notion of a landscape made up entirely of plains. The city has an approachable, down-to-earth energy. It needs neither imposing buildings nor contrived attractions to capture the visitor’s attention: simply walking, talking to local people and enjoying the warm, safe atmosphere of its streets is enough to understand that this is a place growing with a strong sense of identity.
The climate, the vastness of the sky and the ever-present plains create a distinctive atmosphere. In Yopal, dawn invites an early start, while sunset transforms the horizon into a succession of gold, orange and crimson hues. These moments help explain why the landscape is such an enduring source of inspiration for llanero culture. This is more than geography; it is a way of experiencing time, relating to the surroundings, appreciating distance and knowing how to listen to silence.
Through the International Seminar, we discovered that food was one of the most revealing ways into that identity. To eat in Casanare is to encounter a cuisine rooted in the countryside, retaining the flavour of food prepared without haste. Meat, farm produce, plantain, cassava, fruit and cocoa all have a place at a table that tells the story of the land. Every meal reveals the value of simple ingredients prepared with care, invariably accompanied by long conversations. Visitors soon realise that the culinary experience extends beyond the plate: it embraces the stories of those who prepare the food, the origins of the ingredients and the generosity of sharing a meal with others.
Cocoa, naturally, made its presence felt in different ways. Within the seminar, it became more than a seed or a commercial commodity, unfolding into a story of rural families, accumulated knowledge and possibilities for the future. Tasting a chocolate drink made with cocoa grown on the farm, discovering the pods and speaking with those who work the land brings a new appreciation of every chocolate bar, every aroma and every flavour.
One of the most meaningful experiences of the journey was discovering the rural and nature tourism taking shape across the department. Casanare surprises visitors with the variety of environments found within relatively short distances. The familiar image of the sweeping savannah is both real and powerful, but it is only part of the picture. Wetlands, lagoons, gallery forests, rivers, foothills, cloud forests and high-altitude páramo ecosystems reveal another side of the region, waiting to be explored beyond its celebrated plains. This is a destination for observing, listening, walking, breathing deeply and learning to look more closely.
Among the most compelling ways to connect with nature is Paseo por las Nubes Birding Lodge, in the municipality of Chámeza, which demonstrates how tourism can become a tool for environmental conservation. The journey there leaves the open plains behind and enters a greener, more humid and enveloping landscape. At around 2,000 metres above sea level, the cloud forest possesses a quiet beauty. Clouds descend astonishingly low, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the mist, while birdsong accompanies every step. Life, nature and sound surround you.
Here, we discovered that the experience is not intended solely for dedicated birdwatchers. Above all, it offers a chance to rediscover curiosity and a sense of peace.
Visitors learn to pause, listen and notice details that would otherwise go unseen: a distant call, a movement among the branches, a footprint or a plant that reveals itself only when walking slowly. Three endemic bird species of particular significance to Colombia have been identified here, and the project protects a vulnerable ecosystem that endured years of pressure from logging and cattle ranching.
The project has acquired and conserved 23 hectares of cloud forest, developing accommodation and trails centred on birdwatching. That commitment gives the journey a deeper sense of purpose. Staying in a lodge built from reclaimed wood, much of it sourced from naturally fallen trees, is no small detail; it expresses respect and love for the surrounding environment. Solar power, water management, walking trails and local participation demonstrate how community involvement and luxury can go hand in hand with a balanced, responsible relationship with the landscape.
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The way the lodge invites travellers to experience its hospitality is equally special. Behind the project are Zulma Mora and Fabián Cano, who welcome every guest with the warmth of people who know and deeply love this land. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, water, coffee and the services of a specialist guide are included in a stay designed to help visitors explore at a measured pace. The rooms are named after birds, a reminder that the creatures of the forest are also hosts, welcoming visitors from the moment they arrive. After a day of birdwatching, sitting down with a coffee as mist drifts through the vegetation is one of those simple moments that stays in the memory long after the details of an itinerary have faded.
For more information and updates on the project, visit Instagram: @paseoporlasnubes_birdinglodge
The second major experience of our journey took us to Hacienda La Cabaña in Tauramena. Above all, it is a tribute to a remarkable woman, Señora Anita, and a place where visitors experience life in the Llanos through the intimacy of a family farm. Arriving here means stepping into a home that opens its doors and shares its everyday life, rather than a setting staged for a fleeting photograph.
The welcome rests on a simple belief: the best experiences begin with an unhurried conversation. That philosophy is evident from the outset, as visitors listen to those who know the area and come to understand that every outing is rooted in a deep connection to the land.
The excursion, known locally as a safari llanero, was one of the most evocative experiences of the trip. The route winds through savannahs, wetlands and lagoons, revealing animals returning to graze, birds on the move and a light that seems to stretch endlessly across the landscape. There is no hurry. The scenery takes centre stage, inviting visitors to put their phones aside and truly look.
The experience culminated in a lunch where beautifully prepared meat introduced us to new flavours, accompanied by a celebration of llanero folklore through joropo music, the sounds of the bandola and cuatro, and stories. Always stories.
At Hacienda La Cabaña, horse riding offers another way into this world, alongside opportunities to discover farm life through agritourism: feeding the animals, learning about milking, collecting eggs or understanding how the hacienda is run. Each activity brings a deeper appreciation of the daily work that sustains rural life.
The experience is particularly rewarding for visitors from cities, who may have had little contact with the rhythms, responsibilities and gentle care involved in looking after animals. Here, it becomes clear that rural tourism, when approached with respect, builds a bridge between visitors and those who call the land home, without turning the countryside into a spectacle.
Discover more about the experience on Instagram: @lacabana_hacienda
This journey has confirmed that Casanare Department offers tourism experiences capable of inspiring a wide range of visitors. It appeals to nature lovers, birdwatchers, families, food enthusiasts, those interested in rural culture and, of course, anyone wishing to learn more about Colombian cocoa. Its strength lies in its authenticity. Experiences here need no staged backdrop; they emerge from real landscapes, real families and traditions that remain woven into everyday life.
None of this would have been possible without the invaluable support of the Colombian National Federation of Cocoa Growers, whose organisation of the 8th International Cocoa Seminar brought together knowledge, production and a deeper connection to the region. Its role was instrumental in demonstrating that cocoa can support not only a production value chain, but also routes of discovery, rural experiences and opportunities for local communities. The involvement and support of Casanare’s tourism institutions further reinforced a shared commitment to promoting the destination in a way that recognises its natural and cultural heritage, and the people who bring it to life.
Authors: Renzo Puezan y Antonio Santos del Valle
September, 2026
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