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Ciutadella de Menorca (Spain)
Mediterranean Autumn
Plundered by Turkish pirates and coveted by the English, the French and the Crown of Aragon, it has managed to rebuild itself as a haven of Mediterranean tranquillity where life flows at a leisurely pace. To let yourself be swept away by the charm of its streets, lined with colourful houses, is to go from one surprise to the next, with no shortage of stately buildings constructed from marés stone.
The city, which was the island’s capital until 1714, has seen all the cultures of the Mediterranean basin pass through it, and each has left its mark on its culture, art, language and cuisine. Even those early prehistoric settlers, whose origins remain a mystery to the academic community, left behind a legacy that is unique in the world in the form of Talayotic culture, and their remains are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ciutadella is a town that invites you to stroll through it, constantly enticing you with its hidden corners and little squares, its stately and religious architecture, its ever-lively terraces, its markets brimming with a lively, local atmosphere, and its traditional crafts – a seductive experience in which the hours slip by unnoticed; and in autumn it is particularly pleasant thanks to its mild climate.
Ciutadella step by step
The city’s grandeur is a logical consequence of the events that have shaped its history, but despite its turbulent past, its artistic and architectural heritage is spectacular. It is therefore not surprising that, as early as 1964, its historic centre was designated a National Architectural and Artistic Heritage Site.
The Cathedral of Santa María de Ciutadella stands on the ruins of a mosque; it was originally built as a church in the Catalan Gothic style on the orders of King Alfonso III of Aragon in the 13th century. Throughout its history, it has endured numerous sieges, attacks and looting, which have necessitated successive reconstruction work. This explains why different architectural styles, such as Neoclassical and Baroque, can be seen.
In 1986, a comprehensive restoration project was undertaken, which has dramatically improved the appearance of the church; the choir stalls, the 17th-century Baroque Chapel of the Souls, the early 19th-century Neoclassical Chapel of the Immaculate Conception and the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament have all been restored.
From the outside, as well as its imposing silhouette, one can make out what was originally the minaret, which was later converted into a bell tower.
Staying on the subject of religious architecture, the church of the Augustinian convent known as Els Socors is a unique landmark in Menorca due to its Renaissance style with Castilian influences. It is also notable for its three-arched classical-style exterior façade and the exquisite wall decorations inside.
As we wander around, another architectural gem comes into view. The church of El Roser, now used as the Municipal Exhibition Hall, was built in an early Baroque style between the 17th and 18th centuries, but what is most striking is its façade, which is extraordinarily ornate.
We frequently come across examples of magnificent civil architecture. Can Saura is one of the finest examples of Menorcan Baroque architecture. Inside, the highlights include a monumental staircase and the large octagonal dome that floods the entrance hall with light, from where visitors can access the various galleries of the Ciutadella Municipal Museum. As well as a room specifically dedicated to the Sant Joan Festivities, the museum’s exhibition tells the story of the municipality through fascinating ethnological and archaeological collections, such as the artefacts found in the des Mussol and des Càrritx caves.
According to tradition, the relief of a blindfolded woman’s face that adorns the entrance to the Palau Torre-Saura – Cas Comte conveys the idea that, as she cannot see who is crossing the threshold, everyone who enters is welcome. This is one of the jewels of neoclassical civil architecture. Extraordinary events for the town and for the family of the Counts of Torre-Saura have taken place within its walls. In 1860, Queen Isabella II, accompanied by her family and a large entourage on an official visit, was on her way to Maó, but bad weather forced them to disembark at Ciutadella. They stayed at the residence of the Counts of Torre-Saura, where a room was set aside with a simple throne to serve as the Royal Hall. That seat now faces the wall, signifying that it can never be used again.
From Alfonso XII to the current King Felipe VI, many prominent figures have visited the Palau Torre-Saura.
Plaça des Born is the heart of the city, providing access to the historic centre, the old harbour and every part of Ciutadella. This landmark area is home to the Des Born Theatre and the Cercle Artístic, as well as the Town Hall building. Opened in 1925, it stands out for its Moorish design, following the architectural style of the former fortress and later the Military Governor’s Palace on the site of which it was rebuilt. Next to it stands the Governor’s Bastion, a splendid viewpoint offering magnificent views over the old harbour; it is one of the few remaining sections of the 17th-century wall, built on top of the medieval wall that was destroyed in 1558 during the Turkish attack.
At its feet, the old harbour is brimming with local colour and liveliness. As well as its many dining and nightlife options, it is also becoming a cultural hub with an ever-expanding programme of events each year.
The entrance to the port of Ciutadella is guarded by the Tower of Sant Nicolau, built in 1680. Its construction from marés stone and its octagonal floor plan give it a striking appearance, as befits a defensive structure.
On your way back to the old town, the best route is via Ses Voltes – as Ciutadella’s most iconic street is popularly known – which also provides the most spectacular backdrop for the horse parade during the Sant Joan festivities.
Without losing any of the charm of urban spaces, Plaça des Peix, also known as Plaça del Mercat, is one of the city’s most authentic spots. A small wrought-iron structure decorated with roof tiles and white and green glazed tiles, with the air of a kiosk, and the arcades that run around the perimeter of the square are home to a vibrant world: fishmongers, butchers, stalls selling vegetables, cheeses, cured meats and the island’s sobrasada, and cafés from which to watch the hustle and bustle of the crowds whilst enjoying an authentic ensaimada or sipping a local wine, such as one of the excellent vintages produced by Bodegas Binitord. If you find yourself there in the afternoon, Plaça del Mercat is also a great spot with a lively atmosphere and live music, perfect for enjoying something as quintessentially local as Menorcan gin in any of its forms.
Within the town centre, Ciutadella is home to an authentic windmill, the only one of its kind still standing in the city. The Molí des Comte was built in 1778 to serve the local farmers. Inside, there was space for the milling machinery, a store and the miller’s accommodation until it ceased operations in 1905. It currently has a restaurant on the premises.
Contemporary art also has its place within the historic centre of Ciutadella. At Carrer del Santíssim, 8, Rovellart is much more than just a shop; it is a workshop of creation, thought and colour that brings to life works exhibited and experienced across all five continents. The Pedrín Art Gallery, at 30 Carrer Seminari, exhibits and sells works by the sculptor Pedro Rodríguez, which are inspired by nature and clearly influenced by Mediterranean light.
Light and stone in the landscape
The natural surroundings of Ciutadella are undeniably fascinating. Like the rest of the island, it is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. What’s more, its magical, crisp white Mediterranean light during the middle of the day gives way to orange hues as evening falls, offering sunsets so breathtakingly beautiful they are truly mesmerising.
Mount Toro is the island’s highest peak and, rising up in the centre of the island, offers a superb vantage point from which to admire it from a bird’s-eye view. On clear days, there is a panoramic view of the entire Menorcan coastline, from Fornells Bay in the north to the white sandy beaches of Son Bou, passing by the Artrutx lighthouse at the southwestern tip. Wherever you look, you are always surrounded by the vast expanse of woodland that covers the island. At the top of the hill stands the sanctuary of Mare de Déu del Toro, run by a community of Franciscan nuns, along with a souvenir shop and a restaurant.
With this overall picture of the region, we take a step back in time in search of its origins. Research suggests that the first human settlements on the island date back to the third millennium BC and that they developed their own culture and way of life until the arrival of the Romans in 123 BC. The period up to that turning point is known as Talayotic culture. However, it is in the latter that the main archaeological remains are concentrated, spread across two hundred and eighty sites. This complex has been named ‘Talayotic Menorca’ and was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023.
Five kilometres from Ciutadella lies the most iconic Talayotic monument of this culture. The Naveta des Tudons is a type of collective tomb built using the so-called Cyclopean technique, which involves the dry-stone setting of medium-sized stones. Its shape resembles an inverted ship, hence its name, ‘naveta’. The interior is laid out over three levels separated by structures built from large slabs, and within it the remains of one hundred individuals of both sexes and all ages, dating from the 9th century BC, were found, along with abundant grave goods such as bronze bracelets, pottery objects, bone buttons, bronze weapons and a decorated bone stopper that formed part of a case containing the hair of some of the deceased as part of the funeral ritual.
Cala Morell, on the north coast of Ciutadella, is a small natural harbour whose rocky cliff face is home to a group of fourteen man-made caves, forming an exceptional prehistoric rock-cut cemetery that was in use from the Talayotic period in 1700 BC until the 2nd century AD. They come in various sizes, ranging from the smallest, with a circular floor plan and a vaulted ceiling, to the most monumental, one of which features classical architectural motifs on its façade.
From a more social perspective, the Talayotic settlement of Torretrencada is an interesting open-air museum which, through its archaeological remains, illustrates what society was like during the late Talayotic and post-Talayotic periods.
We now move on to a more contemporary narrative whilst retaining the language of the stones. The s’Hostal Quarries are the limestone quarries from which marés stone was extracted for use in building construction. After ceasing operations in 1994, the site was destined to be filled in and reforested, thus leading to the disappearance of a monumental man-made landscape which had, to a large extent, helped to create another – the urban landscape with its beautiful monuments.
At this point, Líthica enters the picture: a private, non-profit foundation set up to prevent the disappearance of the marés quarries. A comprehensive restoration plan was drawn up to transform them into a space dedicated to education, culture, nature and leisure; in 2017, they were designated a Site of Ethnological Interest, becoming part of Menorca’s Historical Heritage catalogue, and in 2019 they received the Europa Nostra heritage award.
Its programme of activities is very comprehensive and varied throughout the year; workshops are held for children and adults, and visits can be guided or self-guided, allowing visitors to explore the area at their own pace.
This brings our visit to Ciutadella to an end, with the sense of tranquillity that its atmosphere has instilled in us, our palates satisfied, our knowledge of the culture a little richer and, above all, warmed by the friendliness of its people.
More information: Ciutadella City Council – Tourism · Menorca – Island Council
Author: José Manuel Gutiérrez
Photographs: Javier Gutiérrez/Cardinalia Comunicación
Andrzej Rostek; Luna Marina; Bodegas Binitord; Rovellart; Galería de Arte Pedrín; Manel Subirats
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